The Charleston Revives the Roaring 1920s in Bakewell

Nestled in the heart of Bakewell, The Charleston offers a vibrant 1920s experience with live jazz and a diverse menu, showcasing both culinary hits and misses while emphasising local sourcing and creative desserts.

H onestly, the last thing I expected to find in the heart of Bakewell, England, full of rolling hills, stone cottages, and sheep, was a shiny 1920s-themed bar and restaurant with live jazz open until midnight. But here she is, The Charleston in all her glory, set inside the historic Royal Bank of Scotland building dating back to 1838. There’s something for everyone here, whether you want to stand in the bustling bar area sipping fizzy cocktails to the tune of live music, or to sit for dinner in their quieter upstairs booths, enjoying conversation in romantic light, The Charleston has a place for you. 

The Charleston’s goal is to bring the glamorous and sophisticated spirit of the roaring 1920s into the 2020s. Here, they invite you to ‘be present, bold, romantic, and fabulous,’ and to savour the moment and enjoy life. They indeed offer everything from brunch to afternoon tea to evening dining and Sunday roasts, all the while supporting Derbyshire producers by partnering with local farmers and craftspeople. 

Here, you’ll find opulent interiors featuring large and in-charge pink chandeliers, patterned wallpaper, eclectic gallery walls, and green suede booths—to name a few. The colours, patterns, and textures are abundant, yet while eccentric, it all works together without feeling overwhelming. Along with the 20s-style music that plays before live music begins, you will truly feel transported to another time. 

While the atmosphere lived up to its promises, the food sent us on a bit of a rollercoaster. Initially, my pineapple mezcal cocktail didn’t give a strong start to the evening; as it tasted of watered-down mezcal and nothing more. Additionally, the cheese soufflé—while great in cheesy flavour—had a slightly grainy texture and was missing the classic eggy airiness that is the essence of a soufflé. I suspect this may have been the result of it being gluten free. So while it is a great option for those who are shackled to the mealier GF options, I believe the kitchen would do better to stick with natural gluten free options as opposed to substituting flour in dishes that it’s crucial to. And finally, by ordering the gochujang pork belly bites, we were ready for a kick from the Korean fermented chilli paste, but sadly these were lacking in abundant flavour and were quite dry and chewy.

However, the saviour of the appetiser round was the sweet-and-sour-glazed ‘duck bonbon,’ a dish I couldn’t possibly have pictured in my head until it arrived. Served beautifully atop a starchy rice cake and a pool of sweet and sour barbecue sauce, said ‘bonbon’ turned out to be a patty of finely shredded duck topped with thin strips of red onion and ginger, all sitting on a signature, custom-branded plate. While the menu did promise a crispy sesame rice cake, the rice was far from crispy, but we were not disappointed. The glutinous, gooey rice actually provided a very welcome texture contrast to the shredded duck, and the ginger strands added a wonderful acidic punch and crunch. This is a do-not-miss dish—and, naturally gluten free. 

Our entrée course was equally hit and miss, with one dish hitting and one missing the mark. I was excited for the crayfish and lobster ravioli in bouillabaisse cream sauce, but the dish fell short of expectations. The filling was chewy and tasteless, and the sauce was separated, watery, and lacking in cream. At £23.50 for four small raviolis, I had higher hopes. On the other hand, our slow-cooked rabbit exceeded expectations for a fairly difficult protein. As rabbit is so lean, it can end up quite tough, but The Charleston slow cooked and shredded theirs, leading to a perfectly tender rabbit cake not dissimilar to the duck bonbon. This one was wrapped in pancetta, which added a nice fattier quality, though I did wish the pancetta was crispy. But the tarragon cream sauce and creole potatoes truly stole the show; a bit of rabbit on a squishy potato doused in the herbaceous, luscious sauce was the best bite of the night. That is, until dessert arrived. 

• Unique Venue: The Charleston, located in a historic Royal Bank of Scotland building, brings a 1920s theme to Bakewell, complete with live jazz and a vibrant atmosphere.
• Diverse Dining Options: Offers a variety of meals, from brunch and afternoon tea to evening dining and Sunday roasts, all while supporting local Derbyshire producers.
• Opulent Interiors: Features striking design elements like pink chandeliers, eclectic wallpaper, and green suede booths, creating a visually stunning environment.
• Cocktail Experience: The pineapple mezcal cocktail was underwhelming, but the bar area provides a lively atmosphere for sipping drinks.
• Standout Appetisers: The sweet-and-sour-glazed duck bonbon is a must-try, beautifully presented and packed with flavour.
• Entrée Highlights: The slow-cooked rabbit was praised for its tenderness and delicious tarragon cream sauce, while the crayfish and lobster ravioli fell short.
• Dessert Innovation: The Charleston’s Bakewell tart reimagines a classic with almond cake and raspberry sorbet, while the Szechuan peppercorn and yuzu curd Eton mess offers a creative twist.
• Overall Experience: Despite some food inconsistencies, the combination of live music, a glamorous setting, and innovative cuisine promises an unforgettable night out.

When in Bakewell, how could I not order a Bakewell tart? The Charleston puts their own spin on it: a risk that paid off. Their tart was akin to an almond cake, with a thin crust just on the end of the slice, a raspberry sorbet to substitute for the jam inside, and all doused in a rich crème anglaise. The nutty cake, the crumbly crust, the tart sorbet, and the unctuous custard each brought their own musical note and abstract burst to the palate, giving me visions of a symphonious fireworks display like Remy in Ratatouille. 

Putting their own twists on traditional English desserts is a specialty The Charleston should capitalise on, because their Szechuan peppercorn and yuzu curd Eton mess was another feat of epic proportions. I’m not typically a fan of tiny pretentious desserts; if I’m paying for dessert, I want a mess of it (pun intended). While the Eton mess may have underdelivered in decadence due to its size and fussy styling, it did not underdeliver in flavour. Was it essentially a plate of whipped cream with 3 strawberries? Yes. But the cream was light and fluffy, with fascinating bits of peppercorn dotted throughout that lent a surprise bitterness paired with the sweet cream and citrusy curd. If you’re craving something rich and decadent that’s more than six calories, this is not for you. But if you like creative, out-of-the-box desserts, this is a great choice. 

Of course, I wish the food had been more consistent. But a night at the Charleston is an entire experience, and it lives up to that. As I was there on a Saturday, the live music didn’t start until 9pm, which is simply past my bedtime. But I fully believe that a night of live 20s-themed music, a tasseled dress, and a bubbly cocktail in hand in this grand venue would indeed deliver a night you’d never forget.